how does one do justice to a perfect day? how could i ever describe it in a way that honors how it felt? in these situations i feel most comfortable describing the meta-experience of how i feel about describing the perfect day. but doing that all the time means i am taking the coward's way out. so i guess i will try.
today was a perfect day, so let's start there. my boyfriend and i arrived in iceland yesterday, and today spent the day at the blue lagoon, a milky blue geothermal pool with mud masks and saunas and steam baths and more.
the blue lagoon is the sort of well-oiled tourist machine that has thought of anything and everything you might need or want during your visit. they had a swimsuit-drying machine about the size of a hand dryer, where you put your swimsuit in and held it closed for ten seconds. they had waterproof phone cases available for purchase so you could have your in-lagoon photoshoot with peace of mind (though i did wonder how often they have to fish someone's phone out of the pool—it's so opaque that if you drop it, good luck recovering it on your own). they have a complimentary mud mask and non-alcoholic beverage included in entry, both to be enjoyed while soaking in the warm geothermal waters.
one of the most luxurious parts of the experience was the privacy afforded by the ever-rising wafts of steam. there were hundreds of people at the lagoon at the same time as we were, but the steam reduced the visibility so much as to often feel like we had the whole place to ourselves—or at least a five-meter circumference around us.
there were also so many little nooks and crannies of the lagoon that we had no problem finding our own corner, whether it was alone in the vaguely yonic, half-submerged steam bath or alone in the far end of the supposed-to-be-cell-phone-free area, where we found the smooth, solid lagoon floor give way to yielding goop, before the craggy lava-stone edge of the pool rose away from where we lay.
my boyfriend is always heart-wrenchingly handsome, but seeing his clear blue eyes against the pale blue milky waters and perfectly brilliant sky, with the sun reflecting on the water and the steam rising around us, i truly could not believe just how beautiful he was. i felt the happiest i've ever been.
i wrapped myself around him and floated weightlessly in the warm water. i dipped my head back and submerged my hair, which reported makes dry hair drier but oily hair less oily and thin hair less thin—so i took my chances and drenched it, though i had covered it in conditioner and tied it up as instructed.
as if this wasn't sensory heaven already, i was further delighted when we applied our complimentary mud masks, from two employees inside the pool—rather than at the designed poolside mask bar—wading towards us offering the complimentary mask from a bucket in their hands.
i spread it on my face, careful to avoid my eyes—i had kept my contacts in, though advised the silica in the pool could be irritating; the warnings had also stated that the silica could damage eyeglasses as well, so i preferred to wear my contacts. though i did spread some on my other body parts too, my face was the only part that stayed on, as i couldn't help but submerge the rest to escape the cold air.
but the cold air making contact with the mask on my face? that was incredible. entire body submerged from the neck down in calming, steaming water, while the mud dried on my face pulling it pleasantly taut and keeping a constant, refreshing chill all over.
in between lounging in the water and various steam rooms, we also lounged indoors and both started reading new books. we had hoped there would be a more extensive lounge area indoors—preferably something horizontal—but we made do. i had just finished my first reading of pride and prejudice the day before, and my boyfriend started it now. i started a new swedish book i had brought along on this trip, and hoped it wasn't too hard for me. i got through a few pages, between stopping to look out over the lagoon and asking my boyfriend which part he was at whenever i heard any hint of a reaction to what he was reading. this was to my absolute delight—it was much harder to share my reactions to certain passages before he had read it, as i had to cobble together a preamble of context every time i wanted to share a funny line.
after we had had our lounging fill, we had dinner at the lava restaurant, which looked out over the lagoon. the restaurant was almost entirely empty, so our reservation would have felt a bit overkill, except that it meant we were seated at the most sought-after view, pictured below, which the website had explicitly stated they could not guarantee. the food was good and the interior aesthetic matched the name—crazy how volcanic a red spotlight over craggly rocks can look.
our reservation was a bit too early to catch sunset, so we hopped in our rental car and drove somewhere we might be able to see it well. after 10 minutes of a roller-coaster gravel road, we finally made it to a little bright orange lighthouse, with 360-degree gradient views all around us.
we drove back into the city as the sun made its final goodbye, then walked to meet friends once we had dropped off our stuff where we were staying. it was a colder night than yesterday, and my boyfriend offered for us to take the car over, but i preferred we walk, even if i should have put on another layer.
walking turned out to be the right choice. as we walked, we started to see vaguely cloudlike formations above us, but much fainter and fickler. the shapes gained a pale greenish hue and formed a line above our heads, as if we were following a path lit by magical faeries. it was the first time my boyfriend had ever seen the aurora borealis, and it was on the most perfect day i could imagine. we skipped and yippeed with glee, and repressed the urge to insist everyone we passed also look up and see it.
it came and went along our entire walk over, sometimes brighter, sometimes almost gone entirely. once we arrived, half our party had come outside to see it for themselves after i sent a photo in the group chat. some groaned in disappointment, discovering in real time that low-level auroras are best viewed via long-exposure (of only a second or two) phone pictures.
but give it an hour or two, or even thirty minutes, of just staying in one spot and letting the aurora work her magic, and magic she will indeed give you. it never got intensely bright or showed many colors this night, but it certainly danced and morphed and merrily filled the sky.
i really couldn't be happier.